Layman's Dojo - Japanese Edition (Katana)
How would you be able to identify the quality of a weapon without first knowing what to look for? In this first article we will briefly cover the parts of a sword and the best metals to look for with your intent toward the weapon in mind.
First, lets lay down the groundwork with a bit of terminology:
-Kissaki- The tip of the blade, also known as “Sharp pointy end”
-Boshi- This is the curved edge of metal leading from the Kissaki to the edge (Cutting side) of your weapon.
-Hamon- This is the wavy pattern on the sword caused by the cooling process during forging. It has little to do with the quality of the weapon (Except for some exceptions), but is a major value in regard to aesthetics (i.e. It’s what makes it pretty), and is something to look out for if you are a Collector.
-Mune- This is the back of the katana. (The not cutting side)
-Hi- The groove running down the spine of the blade; also called “Blood groove”
-Ha- The cutting edge of the katana. This is obviously important, seeing as it is the major funtion of the weapon.
-Habaki- The blade collar. (A band of metal wrapped around the bottom of the blade, adding stability and aesthetics)
-Tsuba- The hand guard, seperating your fists from the offending blade of an opponent.
-Tsuka- The “handle”. Where the posessor holds the sword.
-Tsuka Ito- This is the wrapping that goes around the handle, adding grip and possibly aesthetics.
-Kashira- The pommel, or “Butt End” of the sword.
-Tang- The portion of the blade that runs through the handle, there are a few variants.
-Full Tang- Neccesary for those of you who will be actually using this weapon, as it ensures a durable and well made sword that is not going to bust apart on the first unlucky tree that you go whacking at!
-Half Tang- On this type of blade, the tang only goes halfway through the handle, not affording much in the way of stability, but no big deal for those of you who are collecting.
Allright, with that down pat we can get into the materials used, and what types are best for your intent. There are many metals and variations of formula used in sword smithing, I will cover just a few. We can break things up simply with a question of “Stainless Steel, versus Carbon Steel”
-Stainless Steel- These are swords used primarily in decoration only. They are not suitable for use in combat or the rigors of day to day practice. (If the weapons states 440 Stainless, keep an eye out for 440-C, it is more durable and higher quality than 440-B or A
-Carbon Steel-These are the more usable weapons, being able to survive some tough love from the owner, and should hold up well in combat environments.
About the Author
Keep reading to find out more about swords, from Roman swords to Italian rapiers!
if a stainless steel katana blade chips when blocking, is it a traditional blade or machine made blade?
my katana has 28 inch blade, with a cap that holds the handle wrapping. and the handle has wooden peg that locks it the tang.
Machine made...most likely stamped steel. Traditional katanas are folded steel (multiple times) so that the carbon in the steel fuses together. You can check the tang for markings that can tell you more after removing the handle. If there are Kanji characters there are websites dealing with katana's that can tell you more.
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Katana Stainless
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