Set Block
Read About Making Blocks And Borders In Craft
Once you select your patterns, blocks, templates, etc, you will need to prepare your fabric. You will need to consider how to organize your blocks, once you gather the necessary amount needed to complete your project. You want to consider your borders as well.
You will need graph paper, since you will need to sketch in order to determine how many blocks you will need to complete your quilt. To get started you will also need to decide the size of quilt you want to create and then you can consider settings.
To set your blocks, or organize the blocks you can consider borders, sashing, and cornerstones. The diagonal settings are another style you can consider, as well as the straight set.
Sashing works in the same way as the straight sets, i.e. you merely block your settings against the other and in an organized line. After you will run horizontal and vertical lines, which makes up your 9-patch scheme. The blocks in this instance are interacting with the stitches in three lines and with only three blocks. Use the "block-to-block" steps as listed above to continue. To create a visual, think of a box, or frame with nine rows across and nine rows down in a framed grid. Now add star-shapes, creating nine stars in three rows across your grid. If you can visualize the grid, you can get an ideal how the slash and straight setting works.
Next, add narrow stripes at the corners and around your row of boxes. If you can visualize, you have created a grid of lattice and/or slash. The pattern is designed to enhance your quilts overall outcome, yet you can add different effects to achieve your ultimate design. You can create an ordinary quilt from this grid, or you can crisscross the framework by interwoven your open-mesh frame, crisscrossing the stripes until you form a pattern. Some crafters use geometric patterns to arrange points.
How to set diagonal patterns:
If you want to create a diagonal pattern, or set you will need to organize, and add your blocks, placing them diagonally across your fabric, and on the points. Work a 45-angle into the scheme and work at the side. "On point" is a crafters term to state that the set blocks are on the points.
In the middle of the diagonal set, you will need to create triangles to make up the middle section of your pattern. You will need large and small triangles, which the larger batch will make up the center, while the smaller batch will fit the corners. Slashing terrazzo or strips is optional as well.
In addition to the slashing, straight, or diagonal, you can also choose to vertical set, or else the strip set. Crafters refer to the strip set as "Strippy." Forming the Strippy is easy. You merely place your blocks perpendicularly in narrow pieces and divide the other narrow pieces, or strips.
The medallion is another set you can consider when crafting quilts. You will need to create middle equidistant from the other points. Next, you will need to focus on the points in the middle and surround them with various styles of blocks, slashing, or borders.
Now create your borders. To start your borders add your blocks to achieve the dimension of your borders at the side. You will need to factor in the slashing measurements, as well as the blocks. Example: Three blocks measuring 10-inch square, plus four strips at one inch wide equals 34 inches. Once you finish add a quarter or 1/4-inch seam and leave room to each side of your fabric. Now you can move to finish your borders.
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Anyone bought the voodoo knife Block Set?
Is it worth the money? I don't want to spend all that if the knives are no good. Would anyone recommend it?
Don't but it. And don't buy a set in general, unless somehow you know for sure, you need all of the knives in that set, which I have never seen so far. All the sets including that voodoo include at least 2-3 knives that you'd never use.
Whenever the maker uses something good, or at least acceptable steel, they as usual state that clearly. It's part of the promotion. Mostly makers state knife Rockwell hardness of the steel too. Anything below 54HRC is too soft to hold any acceptable edge.
As for the Voodo knives, I'd be very suspicious of any kitchen knife that doesn't state the steel used in it. "Stainless Steel" or "Surgical Stainless Steel" is very vague and as usual refers to crappy 420J mark steel or worse. Of course there can be good surprises, but not at that price.
Overview of kitchen knife steels is here - http://www.zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/articles/kkchoser/kksteel.shtml
Western kitchen knives are relatively soft - 54-56HRC on Rockwell scale. Those are pretty easy to sharpen compared to much harder Japanese knives 62-67HRC. So, I wouldn't be worried about sharpening about those, just the thing is the edge won't last long.
For 70-100$ you can buy 2-3 pretty good kitchen knives and you can pick exactly the ones you need, not wasting money on extras that you will never use. Minimal set in Home Kitchen would be small 3-4" Paring Knife for delicate tasks, 8-10" chef's knife(some prefer 6-7") for general cutting and Serrated Bread knife. You can get all that under 100 and use them.
Sorry, but the way things are today you won't buy good 5-6 knives for 69$ or even 100$.
Oh, and if you are on the market for kitchen knives, don't fall for marketing hype(BS) about fully-forged-fully-tanged-bolstered knives.
Good kitchen knife doesn't require neither of those, you just pay extra money. Global chefs knives are stamped,w/o any bolster and they will outcut forged Western counterparts any day. Plus they cost cheaper than premium western knives. And Globals aren't really high end knives either.
If you like a knife that's one thing, but don't pass on the knife because it's not forged or doesn't have a bolster or a Full Tang. Those don't define a good knife.
For more on how to choose kitchen knives - http://www.zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/articles/kkchoser/index.shtml
There is a section that lists some pretty good knives from price/performance standpoint too.
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