Steel Mixing

Steel Mixing

Crucibles in the General Steel Making Process

Typically, a crucible is defined as a container in which metals are melted, usually at temperatures above 550 °C. These crucibles are typically made of graphite with clay as a binder material. These crucibles are extremely durable and resist temperatures to over 1650 °C. A crucible is lowered into a furnace and, after the melting; the liquid metal is removed from the furnace and slowly poured into the mold. Some old steel making furnaces (usually electrically powered) had an embedded crucible and was tilted as the metal was poured out.

Crucibles are also called pots, and used for melting small amounts of various materials, but more particularly for the manufacture of crucible general steel, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdikZ-Th5Hw. For this industry crucibles are made of a high quality of clay mixed with a little powdered coke (clay crucible or white pot), or of a mixture of clay and graphite (graphite, plumbago, or blacklead crucible).

Graphite crucibles can be made to contain a heavier charge, and also last a greater number of heats. They are made of a mixture of Ceylon graphite, German clay and pure sand, the final composition being approximately: The clay is dried, ground, made into a paste with water, and the sand and graphite thoroughly mixed in, after which the mass is allowed to remain for a few days in a damp place to season or temper, i.e., be in a better condition for working. The amount of crucible material prepared at one time is called a batch. A lump of the proper size is cut off, kneaded slightly to insure its uniformity, and put inside a mold which is placed on a potter's wheel, and the mass spun up (by revolving the wheel) to fill the mold. The proper thickness of the wall is obtained by means of an arm or profile iron which descends and shapes the inside of the crucible. The excess at the top of the mold is sliced off and the mold removed. Spinning up gives better results than simple pressing because it causes the flakes or plates (in which natural graphite occurs) to take a tangential direction and intermesh, thereby binding the material together.

Artificial graphite is rarely if ever used, as it does not occur in these plates. The crucibles are now dried, first for about 24 hours, at about 20° to 25° C. (70° to 80° F.), after which they are smoothed up; and then for about three weeks at a temperature high enough to drive off the hygroscopic moisture. They are then heated (annealed or burned) in an oven (annealing oven) for about three days at a temperature of about 825° C. (2500° F.) to drive off all the combined water. The crucibles are stacked up in a number of tiers, and, as they are still very tender, they are placed in loose-fitting clay molds (seggars or saggars) which keep them from being crushed, and also prevent excessive oxidation. When crucibles of different sizes are being made they are usually nested, i.e., the smaller are placed inside the larger. The slight oxidation of carbon on the surface, which always occurs, gives the crucibles, originally black, a brownish color (the color of the clay). The covers are made and treated in a similar manner.

Clay crucibles were chiefly in England, and are manufactured from a high grade of fireclay (Burton, Stourbridge, etc.), usually mixed with about 5% of good ground coke. The mixing is done very carefully, frequently by treading the mass with the bare feet on the treading floor. A lump is then placed in a flask or mold, and a plunger having the shape of the interior is forced down, being centered by a pin passing through a hole in the bottom. The flask is removed and the top of the crucible forced inward, by means of another conical mold, to give it a shape like a barrel. After drying for a few days in the pot house (where they are made), the crucibles are further dried at a somewhat higher temperature near the flues of the melting furnaces. The hole left in the bottom is closed when the crucible is set in the furnace for use by throwing in a little sand which frits the crucible to the clay stand on which it rests.

These processes have not been used in the United States since before World War II. The modern general steel making processes is highly computerized and fields an army of robotic machinery.

About the Author

Sarah Martin is a freelance marketing writer based out of San Diego, CA. She specializes in business, manufacturing, construction, and
general steel
. For more information on general steel, please visit
http://www.generalsteelcorporation.com/
.


Would resin coated steel plate work for bridge replacement?

In a society full of plastic resins and rusting steel, would coating steel with a resin and using it for the rebuilding of bridges be a structurally sound, yet resistant to corrosion?

I'm a layman, but I found this info to support my idea at http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?wo=1993011935

The abstract reads:

(EN) A fluororesin film coated steel plate obtained by forming a substrate treatment film consisting of a mixed resin of a fluororesin and a heat resisting resin on the surface of an aluminum plated steel plate, an aluminum-zinc alloy plated steel plate, an alloyed molten zinc plated steel plate or a Stainless Steel plate, and further forming a thermally fused film consisting of a thermoplastic fluororesin film on the substrate treatment film. This resin coated steel plate is superior not only in heat resistance, durability and adhesion but also in the adhesion, wear resistance, processability and corrosion resistance of the film.

Would this work? Thanks.

In concept yes. However in reality there is another very important factor: Price.

Building the bridge entirely out of stainless steel would do the same thing, and that technology has been around for a long time. Why don't they use it on bridges: Price.

If the price is realistic, there are also a few other factors that would be good to consider:

Stress Cracking-- Different materials stress differently an may thus separate regardless of how well they are adhered to one another.

Heat Cracking-- Temperature changes cause different materials to expand different amounts and may result in cracking as well. And once cracked, corrosion skyrockets.

Resins vs UV-- Many epoxies and plastics are very volatile in sunlight. Even expensive treated epoxies may only have a 20year life under direct sun.

Good idea, but the devils in the details

Good Luck


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5 Stainless Steel Mistakes Not to Make   by Smanuva123

Rusting on stainless steel is an issue that we are very familiar with here at the Appliance Doctor. No matter what the product and/or make of the product may be, rusting is a problem that is seen all the time.

Although many of us may attribute these rust issues to the machines location or outside factors, the main dilemma can be blamed on the products that you are using to clean your machines. Certain cleaners, especially those containing bleach, are harmful to your machine and its beautiful décor. In fact, although many cleaners state on the bottle that they can be used on stainless steel, this is not true.

Chlorine, which is found in most of your household cleaning products, forms a chemical reaction when used on stainless steel. The product is actually causing oxidation on your metal surface which is then creating that stubborn rust that you can't get rid of.

Our suggestion to you would be to use a little soap and water and to purchase a stainless steel polish. steel polishes are made from Mineral Oil, making them light yet effective. A gentle cleaning with the soap and water, followed by a smooth polish will leave your appliance shiny, clean, and more importantly, rust free!

5 STAINLESS STEEL MISTAKES NOT TO MAKE.

1. Do not use abrasive cleaners that will scratch the surface- Depending on the surface finish of your steel, abrasive cleaners can cause scratching. Duller finishes probably won't show scratching as much as mirror or highly polished finishes. When in doubt, test in a hidden spot, and also work from the least risky type of cleaning, (ie water) to the Heavy Duty stuff.

2. Do not forget to rinse-Gritty or dirty water, or residue from cleaning solutions left on a steel surface can stain or damage the finish.

3. Do not use cleaners containing chlorine.-While it may be second nature to bleach everything, steel and chlorine don't mix. Stay away from the bleach when you clean steel.

4. Do not use steel wool or steel brushes-These products leave little particles in the surface of the steel and inevitably these particles begin rusting and staining the surface of the steel. They also can excessively scratch the surface of your steel.

5. Do not assume it's the cleaner.-If you do have some spotting or staining, and you've followed all the rules, it may not be the cleaner. Water, especially hard water, can leave spotting and staining on steel surfaces. Towel dry after rinsing can end the problem.

Appliance Doctor have expertise people and resources to solve cleaning issues in Appliance Repair NYC area.

About the Author

Appliance Doctor is all about consumer satisfaction, and they go that extra mile for their customers by offering a free consumer special report about appliance repair New York that tells you what you should know before you make that important call. It is available at www.appliancedoctorx.com.

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